A SUNDAYINMALIBU

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A Sunday here has an obvious shape once you know it, and it runs opposite to what everyone else does. Up the canyon first, back down for the evening.

Mornings are for the roads with nobody on them, the middle of the day is for a farm stand, and five o’clock is for the beach — by which point the day visitors have gone and it is mostly people who live here.

Morning — the right turn

Up one of the canyon roads before nine, while they are empty. Within five minutes of leaving the highway the traffic disappears and it stops feeling like the same county.

There are farm stands and a fig ranch up there. Bring cash — several do not take anything else — and go early, while the good things are left.

Midday — lunch, standing up

A farm stand sandwich and fruit eaten at the side of the road is the best cheap meal in Malibu and the one I have most Sundays. Under fifteen dollars and better than most of what is on the highway.

If you want a table instead, go inland rather than along the coast. Same money, no queue, no valet.

Afternoon — stay off the highway

PCH between about eleven and three on a Sunday is the worst stretch of road in the county. Plan the day so you are not on it, which mostly means staying up the canyon until mid-afternoon.

Five o’clock — the walk

The beach empties of day visitors around five and for the next hour it is mostly people who live here, walking in the same direction. Everyone does it and it is still the best hour of the week.

Stop at a flower stand on the way home. It is the cheapest thing that makes a Sunday feel finished.