Food / Vol. II Best Of Updated September 20, 2026

THE BESTMEALS

A cheese wheel, a flambé at the table, and oysters that cost a dollar seventy.

Pasta being tossed inside a hollowed wheel of pecorino at the table
The wheel · tossed at the table
A plate of pasta ringed with pepperoni beside grilled octopus
A copper pan flambéd at the table, blue flame over dessert
A teppanyaki counter, chef and diners at the grill
the wheel, obviously →
Lauren tested
Words & testing · Lauren Fowler Open story ↓ Photograph · Lauren
Filed under
Food / Best Of / The Year

Published
September 4, 2026

Best by Lauren may earn a commission when you shop through certain links. Every product here was bought with my own money or tested for at least six weeks. No brand has paid to be included, and nothing is ranked higher because it pays more.

Everything I ate this year, narrowed to the ones I have described to someone out loud since.

They are not ranked by price, and the cheapest is very near the top. What they have in common is that something happened at the table — a wheel, a flame, a plate handed over a counter.

Food that happens in front of you

A cheese wheel tossed at the table, a copper pan set alight, a teppanyaki counter — the theatre is a gimmick and it also genuinely makes the food better, because you eat it thirty seconds after it is finished.

The rule I have landed on: sit at the counter wherever there is one. The food is the same and the meal is better.

The cheapest thing on the list

A plate of beach oysters for about a dollar seventy, shucked in front of me, with lime and a chilli sauce better than it needed to be. I ate them roughly four times a week for months.

Nothing I ate in a restaurant with a website beat them.

The pastry counter

A patisserie counter long enough that choosing takes ten minutes. I went back three times and had something different each time, and I still think about the first one.

The film16 frames · A year of it
A plate of pasta ringed with pepperoni beside grilled octopus
Three nights running
A plate of oysters with sauces, lime and crispy shallots
Oysters, chilli sauce and garnishes on a patterned plate
60 baht
Oysters on the beach
Dinner in a grand dining room, white tablecloths and columns
The one with the columns
A copper pan flambéd at the table, blue flame over dessert
A teppanyaki counter, chef and diners at the grill
Sit at the counter
A long patisserie counter under a leaf-patterned ceiling
Went back three times
Two desserts on dark plates, a crème brûlée and a tart
Small plates and a cocktail on a table, heart-shaped dish
Mango sticky rice on a plate
In season only
Breakfast plates on a table facing a bamboo grove
A bowl of food on the beach
A breakfast bowl in the sun
A fondue table laid with a cheese pot, pickles and boards
January, Switzerland
Silver tray with caviar, Chanel lipstick and a Best by Lauren newspaper
Questions
What was the best thing you ate this year?

A plate of beach oysters for about a dollar seventy, eaten on a plastic stool. The cacio e pepe wheel is second and cost roughly forty times as much.

Is the cheese wheel pasta worth it?

Yes, and not only for the theatre — you eat it thirty seconds after it is finished, which is most of why it is good.

Counter or table?

Counter, wherever there is one. The food is identical and the meal is better.

Best by Lauren Awards 2027
xo Lauren
Keep readingMore from Best by Lauren
The Weekly Best

One email.
Everything worth it.

What I actually bought this week, what I sent back, and the one thing I’d tell a friend about.

Weekly-ish · No spam · Unsubscribe in one click